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Life in
Tehran
These
articles were originally published in payvand.com. If you have any
updates or suggestions please contact Syma - syma@symasayyah.com
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The End of 1388
As this Iranian year comes to an end I have been
wondering about all that has happened and what we have been
through. For Iran
in general and also for ourselves it was an event filled year, although
not one
we would wish to be repeated. This year has been one of the
driest that I
remember, yet we managed not to have any water shortage; and I pray
that next
year will be the same. As it is part of life, some of it is good and
some of it
not so good. As one always says "it is all about how you look at
things and if
you look there is always something good and positive about all that we
experience even though we may fail to see it now." And I have tried
with all my
might to see the positive sides of all that I have experienced this
year, even
though at times it has not been easy.
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Charshanbeh
Sorui
Tradition Is Great Fun
In recent years we have missed the big Charshanbeh Sorui gatherings as
we were mostly outside of Iran so we had to do with a small ceremony.
Or if we were in Tehran, from fear of getting stuck in the traffic
getting there and specially back home, we stayed at home and missed all
the fun and joy of jumping over the fire and saying: "Your redness to
me and my yellowness to you" (basically wishing for the glow and energy
of the fire to come to the person who jumps over it and that for all
the ills, badness and year long tiredness of the year to be taken from
that person. - 03/17/10
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A Rich
November in Tehran
The cold wind keeps coming and playing with the Tehran citizens; as
soon as we turned all the heating on and put on our woollies, we have
had an outburst of a wonderful Indian summer which was short-lived but
much appreciated as the air is clean and sky is bright and life,
despite the notorious Tehran traffic, becomes a little more bearable;
and we can even get a glimpse of my beloved Mount Damavand! -
12/6/09
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Happy
Children at Mexican Embassy in Tehran
Some months ago Cultural section of the Mexican Embassy in Tehran sent
out an invitation to many of Tehran schools inviting their students to
take part in 13th Children's drawing Contest" launched by the Ministry
of Foreign Affairs of Mexico, primarily aimed at Mexicans children
abroad, but also open to children around the world. - 11/13/09
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Dream the
Impossible Dream
October has been a strange month like the rest of this year and we have
been wondering, worrying about little big things or big little things
and friends and the pain and worry that their loved ones endure and
what kills me most is the fact that there is very little we can do, yet
in my heart I am optimistic although I feel totally exhausted. -
11/2/09
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What a
Difference A Day Makes!
What amazes me most these days is the speed of things. My mind can
hardly catch up with one event before a new one unfolds and takes you
into another world and at the same time there are a lot of physical
things that we do, such as taking part in the peaceful and usually
quiet marches around central Tehran. - Syma Sayyah - 6/21/09
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Green
Presence: Magical, Wonderful and truly extraordinary, yet it is real!
This week I have witnessed history in the making with my own eyes a few
times. I have never felt more Iranian that I have done this week and I
have not felt so close and united with my fellow citizens of this land
of ours, and so proudly too. This is not a joke; we are not
adventurers, we are normal citizens of this country exercising our
rights and acting in silence our objections to the outcome of the
recent election and calling for a new election. - 6/19/09
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Photos:
June 18 Election Protests in Tehran: The Faces
Hundreds of thousands of people marched in the streets of Tehran again
on Thursday June 18 to protest the outcome of the June 12 Iran's
presidential election. Following photos show some of the faces of the
people who took part in this march across the capital city. -
6/19/09
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Photos:
June 18 Election Protests in Tehran: Signs and Slogans
Hundreds of thousands of people marched in the streets of Tehran again
to protest the outcome of the June 12 Iran's presidential election.
Following are some of the signs people were carrying. - 6/19/09
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Photos:
June 18 Election Protests in Tehran: People in the streets
Hundreds of thousands of people marched in the streets of Tehran again
on Thursday June 18 to protest the outcome of the June 12 Iran's
presidential election. Following photos shows the people in some of the
streets of the capital city including Ferdowsi, Enghelab and Valie
Asr. - 6/19/09
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Catching
up with myself
We arrived in Oxford just in time to celebrate Chaharshanbe-Suri in our
very little garden with our neighbors, we sat outside even though the
weather was a little cold and managed to have a barbeque, everybody
seemed to enjoy it and some of them even joined us in jumping over the
bonfire and reciting my yellowness to you, your redness to me -
4/24/09
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Tehran's
Fruit Market
Recently, on my way out to visit a location south of Tehran with my
colleague Mr Astani, we visited the new Tehran fruit market. Although
it is primarily a wholesale market, the public can buy there. I had not
been to the market since my childhood when I used to go with my
grandmother for serious food shopping - 4/29/09
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Happy
International Womens Day
Since I first thought like a woman many
moons ago I have honored this day, which women have celebrated since
8th March 1909 in New York. The one thing I so deeply admired about
them is the fact that they did not think of themselves as victims,
despite all the odds, together they took some initiatives and took
their lives in their own hands, and did they think themselves better
than others. Here we also have to change men and women's attitudes and
upbringing.
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My
Granny's Aash-e Sholeh Qalamkar
Along with my sister Sohaila, I was brought up by my grandmother who
was the head of her family, and in those days, once a year, the family
would all come over to our house and stay over while we cooked aash-e
sholeh qalamkar in a huge pot, which was large enough to comfortably
hold a couple of the kids! - 3/2/09
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In the New
Year Please Stop this Madness
We started the New Year not only with much needed rain which made the
famous Tehran traffic jams even more unbearable but, as civilized
citizens of the world, as those who believe that all God's children are
born equal, shocked and mortified that the killing of ordinary citizens
in Gaza by the bombs of the Israeli government is still going on.
- 1/1/09
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Mothers
for Peace Demonstrate in Tehran Against the War in Gaza
Mothers for Peace in Iran are a group of women who came together to
share their solidarity and belief in peace and harmony in the world and
dialogue and understanding rather than violence and war. Today, Sunday,
they demonstrated in front of the Palestinian embassy in Tehran.
- 1/11/09
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Tehran is
much cooler
Tehran is really getting cooler and I am writing to you from my desk
where the central heating unit is on and I have my warm tops on. I
could not believe that just a couple of weeks ago, we were wondering if
it was time to close up the coolers for this year or not, and the next
week we turned the heaters on and now I have put on my woollies and
thick socks with such a drastic change in the weather. - 11/18/08
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Wonderful
Persian Termeh Shopping
Last week I went with my friend Mary for a special shopping trip to the
Tehran main bazaar. She was looking for a special kind of Persian
material called termeh to make into a coat for a special occasion.
Termeh is a valuable and beautiful decorative cloth, finely woven and
comes in many different, usually bright and cheerful colors and
patterns. - 10/30/08
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Mom's Ush
It was just over three years ago that my mother left us and among many
things, I miss the sound of her laughter more than anything else. Yes,
three years since my mom passed away and because she was such a diverse
and varied lady, I decided that every year we would try to remember
her, her memory and her life in different ways. -Syma Sayyah - 9/25/08
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Summer is
coming to an end
For the past few days we have been feeling sudden outbursts of autumn
wind which make life more bearable although Tehran is still too hot.
Summer has been quite hellish and I am sure my bones will be much
happier when we switch the water coolers off as the weather becomes
cooler but I think that we still have a few more weeks to go. -
9/16/08
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Tehran is
Hot
This wish goes for the recent package presented to Iran by the group of
5+1 brought over by a high delegation headed by Mr. Solana. Many hope
that it will somehow and eventually be accepted by Iran, given that
Iran right to sovereignty is accepted and silly threats and sanctions
are lifted. - 7/14/08
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100
delicious Italian recipes with 100 Iranian artists drawings
Once in a while one comes across people who truly enjoy what they do
and knowingly or unknowingly set high standards to be lessons to
others. One such lady is Mrs Felicetta Ferraro who as the cultural
attach� of the Italian embassy in Tehran has been doing this for the
past 8 years. - 5/28/08
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Teymour
and Yeganeh
Recently when I was going back to the office I had often noted a
gentleman sitting on an old stool reading very loudly in pretty good
English. Today I plucked up courage and went and spoke with him.
- 5/27/08
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You never
know what's going to happen next!
When I arrived, he said that he had pain in his chest and could not lie
down. I called my doctor (and my guardian angel) Dr Shahnaz Atabak and
explained the symptoms. Immediately she said that I must take him to an
emergency unit, he most probably has had a heart attack. - 5/8/08
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A walk
with Emma on the east side of Tehran
I love Tehran and as the weather has become more tolerable I have been
able to take some walks around town. Last week I took my friend Emma on
a walk through the central east side of Tehran. We met near the central
bank and started our walk from Berlin Street - so-called because it is
next to the German embassy - where they sell all sorts of fashion and
clothing items. - 4/10/08
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End of the
Year Thoughts
The year that is just coming to its close was a year when for the first
time in my life people talked about the weather in Iran as much as they
did in England. All this talk was because we had one of the worst
winters ever. Cold and snow seemed not to want to leave... -
3/21/08
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8th March
belongs to all women everywhere: Happy International Women's Day
I come from a very mixed and rather unusual background. Women in our
family have been even more different than those around them. I have
seven sisters and six brothers from two fathers and five mothers.
My grandmother was married to Mr Ishmael Sayyah, the brother of Ms
Fatemeh Sayyah the well known scholar, one of the first women in Iran
ever to be educated and the first to teach at university. -
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Dr S.J.
Shahidi's 40th at Dehkhoda in Tehran
I could hardly believe that it has already been 35 days since Dr
Shahidi's passing when Shokoufeh Shahidi my friend called to invite me
to his 40th ceremony at Dehkhoda, last Thursday from 3-5. Time has
passed so quickly despite the cold. - 2/27/08
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Ahmadinejad:
The
Secret History of Iran's Radical Leader by Kasra Naji
Many of you may not know that a new book by Kasra Naji has been
published. Kasra, an old friend of ours, has worked as a journalist for
major news media such as The Guardian, LA Times, The Economist, BBC,
The Financial Times, CNN, ABC and many others about the Middle East and
Asia. - 2/11/08
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Great
Cold
and Great Shame
But what has made me absolutely mad despite the roof and snow and
traffic was the terrible news that Zanan (Women) Magazine has been
closed down. I am not one of their regular readers but I know that it
is one the best things in Iran, and as a citizen I am proud that we
have such a good magazine. - 2/1/08 |
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Tehran
covered in snow
We all have played with snow when we were kids and had a lot of fun.
However as we grow up life takes away many of its simple pleasures and
these days when it snows my immediate thoughts are - Will the pipes
burst? Will the gas be cut off? Will we have a power cut or how long
will it be before the side streets and alleys are so iced up that
anyone walking on them has a more than average chance of breaking
something? - 1/28/08
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Bayan
Salis: An international bookshop in Tehran
Valiasr Avenue is the longest thoroughfare in Tehran and runs from
Tajrish in the North to the main railway station in the south. In this
most amazing and diverse avenue, once in a while you come across a
small place that is a sparkling gem that can brighten your life and
bring joy to your heart and a smile to your lips. - 12/21/07
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A walk in
downtown Tehran
From there we started to walk up Valiasr Avenue to where it crossed
Enghelab Avenue, where I wanted to show my friend the City Theater
building (taatre-shahr). The fact that it was the middle of Ramadan did
not affect us in the least. - Syma Sayyah - 9/29/07
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An
Interesting hour in Qazvin
Qazvin, which is about 90km to the west of Tehran has been quite famous
in the past. It was chosen as the capital during the Safavid era and it
was also an important and significant city during the time of the
Ghajars. Qazvin is a city of about a million inhabitants and it seemed
that everyone was out when we were driving around - 9/13/07
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An
Exquisite Day in Shemshak
We were served a most delicious lunch, all great wonders of Shomal
where Ms Lashai originally is from and is very proud of. - Syma Sayyah,
- 9/9/07
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A Tehran
Summer
Many of you may have noticed that I have been rather quiet and have not
been writing much for a couple of months. I went back to work last
February and since then I have been devastatingly busy with different
projects especially these past few months. The most unusual weather
this summer has been more than a surprise. - 9/7/07
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The
Osnabrueck Symphony Orchestra in Tehran
For the first time in years a foreign orchestra played in Tehran this
week and they received a rapturous welcome. After a visit to Germany
last year by the Tehran Symphony Orchestra, the Osnabrueck Symphony
Orchestra played a concert in the Vahdat hall. Although it was not well
publicized, we were lucky to get some good seats. -Syma Sayyah and Paul
Sanford, Tehran - 8/31/07
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PRESS TV
launched in Tehran
Recently I was invited to attend the launch of PRESS-TV, the new
English language TV channel in at the NIRT main ceremony hall in
Tehran. PRESS TV is a TV channel that reaches its targeted audience
inside and outside Iran through satellite. I learned that it is now
accessible through all the main satellite channels. - 7/19/07
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Tehran's
Famous Flower Market
One of my all time favorite films is My Fair Lady and my favorite scene
is the flower market in the early morning hours. So a few days ago we
booked a taxi for about 5 a.m. I had decided to make my long term wish
come true and go to see one the two famous Tehran flower markets.
- 6/18/07
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Tehran
Diplomatic Ladies Bazaar
Last month on a very hot Friday morning, we went to the annual bazaar
in Tehran organized by the Diplomatic Ladies Group in the massive
garden of the Turkish ambassador's lovely residence on the north east
corner of Elayieh near Pul-e Roumie. They had sold nearly 3000 tickets,
the proceeds of which went to charities and good causes in Iran.
- 6/5/07
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Happy
Birthday Alan Johnston
Today is Alan Johnstons' birthday. He is the BBC correspondent in Gaza
which was abducted 66 days ago by an unknown group. Today at the UN
office in Tehran there was a ceremony on the occasion of his 45th
birthday organized by the BBC and UN offices in Tehran. The Tehran
national and international press corps was present to wish their
colleague a happy birthday and also to demand his immediate
release. - 5/17/07
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Visiting
old friends at Imamzadeh Taher
A few days ago I had a meeting outside Karaj in the west of Tehran, and
on my way back I felt like going to say hello to many old friends and
national heroes whose final resting place is in Imamzadeh Taher just
outside Karaj. - 4/13/07
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A Walk in
Darakeh
Throughout the Norouz holidays we hoped for fine weather in vain. The
sun hardly ever came out and when it did on rare occasions it was for a
very short time. For two whole days it poured and we were sitting close
to the radiators and wondering what had happened to Spring. -
4/5/07
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Kaveh
Golestan - Four years have gone by
On 2nd April 2003 we lost a distinguished and a highly accomplished
Iranian photojournalist, Kaveh Golestan, at Kifri in Iraq. He was a
freelance journalist who at the time of his death was working as a
cameraman for the BBC when he stepped on a landmine as he was getting
out of the BBC jeep. - 3/30/07
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A Norouz
Card with a Difference: A New Seven for our Times
I have received many cards recently from all over the world with Norouz
greetings but there is one that stands out without a doubt and will
stay in one's mind long after the Norouz celebrations have passed. I
wanted to share this card with you which I received from the Zanestan
website - 3/27/07
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Dehkhoda
Institute: A Hidden National Treasure
Ali Akbar Dehkhoda is well known to all Persian scholars across the
world. He was born in Tehran in 1879 and was an accomplished writer and
poet. A well known work of his is the 4 volume Amsal va Hekam which
includes Persian proverbs. Some of his poems were versed mostly and at
times only with pure Persian words. - 3/19/07
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How Can
Two Ladies be a Threat to National Security?
I was on my way to a meeting in center of Tehran today when I passed
the office that Mahboubeh Abbasgholizadeh and Shadi Sadr used to work
in a couple of years ago. I had met them there several times with other
female friends to chat and discuss things. - 3/13/07
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Nazri
Cooking: How religion and tradition interact
Today is Arbaeen, the 40th day after the death of Imam Hossein, the 3rd
Imam in Shia Islam who was martyred in Kabala. This Imam is highly
regarded in Iran and many people cook food in his memory (Nazri) and
give it to the poor, friends and family. - 3/10/07
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HAPPY
INTERNATIONAL WOMEN'S DAY
Yesterday it was raining on and off all the time, but today the sun was
bright and the weather was pleasant but the best news of all was that
almost all of our friends were released very early this morning at
about 2 AM. - 3/8/07
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Arrested
Iranian women were only exercising their constitutional rights
Many of you have seen the news about the arrest of over 30 women
activists in Tehran on Sunday.These ladies should not have been
arrested at all. Whether we agree with their strategy, whether they are
close personal friends, whether they were wise, whether they have
children, whether they have been to court before. The fact remains that
they were arrested and have been put in prison for no reason apart from
exercising their constitutional rights for peaceful gatherings (Section
27). - 3/6/07
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A week of
domestic disaster in Tehran
When we read the international news all that we read about Iran seems
to be about one thing. Yet, in Tehran, where we live, life goes on
normally and often quite ordinarily. We'd like to share with you a
crazy week of our life in Tehran that for many of you will bring back
past memories! - 2/16/07
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A Success
story from Tehran Sharif University
The accomplishments of Sharif University students are well known not
only in Iran but also throughout North America, Europe and other parts
of the world. Recently through my work with PKCF, I found a new success
story of former Sharif University students. They have won many awards
since their formation about 15 years ago. - 1/9/07
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We didn't
make it this time but...
We sure made a difference for the next election and others that follow.
I am writing this without knowing the final outcome of last Friday's
election for Tehran city council in which I ran as an independent
westernized educated candidate. - 12/19/06
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A day in
Darband
Autumn arrived abruptly in Tehran a few weeks ago. First we had a good
deal of rain and thunderstorms, but mostly we get a wind, sometimes
cold and rough but generally pleasant. The best thing about it either
way is that the wind blows away the smog covering Tehran and we get a
clear blue sky which means that we can clearly see the mountains
surrounding this crazy and dear city of ours. - 11/27/06
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A day in a
family garden
It is not very often that we have been able to head out of Tehran and
breathe a little fresh air and enjoy the country. On one such rare
occasion last weekend we were invited by our friends Jassem and Vida to
their bagh (garden) near Mohammad-Shahr in the Karaj area, about 60
kilometers from Tehran. - 11/6/06
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Sofreh
Nazr - An Iranian Shia Tradition
Sofreh is a Persian word which technically means spread but when used
in conversation it means a cloth, simple or grand, usually spread on
the floor on top of the carpet, on which food is served, and nazr means
a wish or a vow which one makes with God. - 10/27/06
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A lovely
Friday in Tajrish
Those who live in Tehran know well what and where Tajrish is. It used
to be, and still is, a center to all destinations in the north of
Tehran, places like Farmanieh, Azjodanieh, Darband, Niavaran, Chizdar
and so on. - 10/20/06
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The Right
to Pass Nationality to the Children of Iranian Mothers
Recently, I accepted an invitation to be on a committee of volunteers
and activists who want to try to change the particular law which
specifies that Iranian nationality can only be passed to a child
through his or her father. - 10/6/06
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A Night in
Darakeh
Darakeh is a village on the slopes of the mountains to the north of
Tehran and is one of the many spots that people can go for a soft or
hard hike depending on how far they wish to walk. - 9/22/06
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Tehran's
ordinary flower shops
I want to share one of Tehran's simple pleasures. I love flowers and I
try never to go anywhere empty handed and I think most Tehran flower
shops do a great job of wrapping and decorating the flowers you
choose. - 9/19/06
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Tehran
again
I have been back in Tehran for a few weeks, after a few months trying
to live in Oxford. We came back for my mom�s saal (the anniversary of
her passing). The first two weeks went by so fast, as I was arranging
the ceremony at our house that lots of family and friends
attended. - 9/18/06
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Park
Mellat's New Face
I have never been a morning person so it was a surprise to me that
recently, one early Friday morning I woke up and was fresh and full of
energy. Since we live near Park Mellat in Tehran, we decided to go
there and have a walk around. - 6/29/06
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Strange
things in Tehran
Recently I had noticed some most strange grey metal fixtures being
installed in the streets near our house. Two days ago I realized what
they were to be used for. - 5/31/06
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Happy
Norouz, there is always hope!
We are coming to the end of the Iranian year 1384, and at such times,
one takes a look back and wonders what the year was like. For many if
not most of us, it has been hard one, yet as life plays on there are
always a few sparkles of good and positive events to help us carry on.
This becomes more important as we get older and life becomes harder and
more serious. -Syma Sayyah - 3/20/06
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End of the
year thoughts
At this time of the year, many people take the time to reflect on the
events that have taken place during the past twelve months. I too have
been wondering about all the many ups and downs of life that I have
been through. - 12/29/05
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The
Wonderful Tehran Friday Market
Tehran may be quiet on Fridays for many, but there is so much that
people can enjoy and find interesting despite it all! One such feature
is the Tehran Friday Market which is held on three floors of a
multi-storey car park in center of Tehran, what was used to be called
'Charaheh Estamboul' as it is near the Turkish embassy, on the east
side of Joumbouri Avenue. - 11/15/05
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The
Irresistible Shirin Patisserie in Tehran
Shirin in Persian means sweet and the Shirin patisserie in the north
part of Tehran - Freshteh Street, No. 56 Agha-Bozourgie Street- is
without doubt my favorite patisserie in Tehran. - 9/14/05
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Home
Decorating Ideas from Tehran
Like so many others, I have now managed to recover from the utter
surprise of the recent Iranian election results. Whatever the first
round of the election might have been, the second round was as fair and
square as you could get anywhere. - 7/19/05
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Payback
Time
Many Payvand readers write to me for many diverse and different
reasons. One of them was a youngish reader who asked me if I could help
him find an NGO that he could work for during his forthcoming visit to
Tehran. I introduced him to one such NGO which asked him to get in
touch with them to arrange things. - 6/23/05
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Tehran's
Andisheh Park: What is important to Iranian men and women
Last week a young friend of my brother�s arranged that I go and talk to
his mates at the park near my mum�s house. Park Andisheh is located in
the middle of Old Shemiran road (called Shariatie these days). -
6/20/05
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Iran�s
Next President And What Awaits Him
Suddenly in Iran there is election fever and posters are everywhere.
After all the fuss, the Iranian presidential election will take place
in a few days and one of the eight approved candidates will become
Iran�s next president. - 6/14/05
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Iranian
women hold protest gathering in Tehran
On Sunday June 12, a coalition of Iranian groups and individuals held a
gathering in Tehran to protest the violation of women rights as
guaranteed by the constitution. The gathering was held in the capital
city in front of Tehran University. - 6/13/05
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Our
pigeons and "a bird that wants to fly high" story
But I want to share with you another story, the story of a bright 17
year old girl, who comes from Kerman and who wants to work for NASA.
Last month she won a silver medal in Switzerland at the 33rd
International Invention Competition held in Geneva. - 5/16/05
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People in
Tehran�s Laleh Park
Last week, with a few minutes between appointments, I and a researcher
went to Laleh Park, which is in the center of Tehran, to take a look
around. There, in the middle of the very tall trees, one can find
refuge and cool off a little from the afternoon heat. Many young people
had the same idea and had found their way there too. - 5/6/05
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Positively
cynical and not that serious either
Last month on an early part of the week, my friend, a European
freelance reporter who speaks good Farsi, and I drove to Karaj which is
on west side of and not far from Tehran. We were going there to
interview these women fire fighters. - 4/18/05
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Photos:
Snow
in Tehran
Last week we had a couple of lovely warm days, which made me think the
spring is just across the corner. But i was wrong, and we have been
having snow on and off since end of last week! - 2/8/05 |
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The
Smiling Ayatollah Kariminia
We got to Qom just before 10am, the time we had arranged for the
interview. We called to say that we may be a little late as we did not
know our way around Qom. After a while, we parked the car in front of a
narrow alley and walked to the address where we met the kind Ayatollah,
at the head of another alley, waiting to lead us to his home. -
2/7/05
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My visit
to Brugge, Belgium
I was in Brugge because in the last week of November I was one of a
number of women delegates who went to Brussels as part of a female
initiative program which aims to build bridges of understanding,
cooperation and friendship between our two nations (Iran and
Belgium). - 1/4/05
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The
Artist�s Forum Garden in Tehran
Every time I go to Tehran Artists' Forum place I see that they are
working on fixing the forum's garden. The other day I was early for a
meeting so I took the time and walked through the garden. I liked it so
much that later that afternoon I went back with my new digital camera
and took a few pictures which I share with you. - 12/23/04
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I Am Back!
Many of you may have wondered what has happened to me. Although I had a
few pieces published that I wrote before I left Tehran in July, to be
quite honest I have not been able to write anything for nearly three
months. - 9/29/04
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My
Favorite Diplomatic Couple In Tehran
I take this opportunity and nominate Mr. and Mrs. Toscano from Italy as
my favorite Diplomatic Couple in Tehran. - 7/21/04
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Iran: A
visit to Firouzkouh Industrial Complex
Many people might know of or have heard abut the Ghazvin Industrial
complex on the west side of Tehran between Karaj and Ghazvin. However,
I doubt that many have heard of Firouzkouh Industrial Complex, which is
on the east side of Tehran, as you turn off Damavand Road and drive
towards Firouzkouh which takes you to Amoul. - 7/16/04
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Iran:
Women�s Horse Racing Competition
My friend Jasem Ghazbanpour who is a well known photographer told me
about a race which took place last month in East of Azerbaijan, in the
valley of Ghreghiyeh near city of Kelidar, where you can find many
historical sites, including Babak Khorramdin's Fort - 7/12/04
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Little
Parks in Tehran
These days my work takes me to the city center whether I go to work or
walk or ride in special Tehran's taxis called mostaghim (straight)- to
get to meetings. This gives me a good chance to see and be ever so
impressed with the state of Tehran's Little Parks which are scattered
all around the city. - 6/20/04
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My trip to
Iran's quake stricken Bam in May
There was still a haze in the air everywhere we went, like a touch of
dust, blocking the view. Generally speaking small scale works have been
done or are under way, but nowhere big enough or fast enough. There
were big queues in front of government offices during the working
days. - 5/28/04
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Photos:
Workers Repairing Arg Citadel in Bam
The following photos show the workers repairing the surrounding areas
of Arg�s historical citadel in Bam. I took them during my recent visit
to Bam. - 5/24/04
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Girls
School in Bam, Iran
Here are some pictures I took from a girls school (Addab) during my
recent trip to Iran�s quake stricken city of Bam. There were some
classes inside the trailers and some in the open space. - 5/19/04
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Sanitary
Facilities in Iran�s quake-stricken Bam
One of the biggest problems that people have in Bam, in the city and
especially in the camps, is sanitation; clean public toilets, a place
where people can have a good and real shower, and a place to wash their
clothes. - 5/21/04
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Bam, Iran:
The Little Gardens of Sorrow
I felt almost an urge to go Bam's cemetery during my recent visit to
this town which was devastated by a deadly quake in December
2003. - 5/17/04
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Iran:
Women at work in Tehran
I was walking in the streets of Tehran yesterday when I saw these young
university students doing some field work in the streets. I was so
impressed that I could not resist taking some pictures from them.
- 4/29/04
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Haft Seen
at British Museum in London
You must all wonder what had happened to me, since I have been pretty
silent for the past few weeks, except for two short art pieces that
were written before I left Iran for a few weeks to carry on my busy
life in some corners of Europe as well as visiting my loved ones.
- 4/26/04
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End of the
Year Thoughts
We have had the first rains of the spring here in Tehran. I am sure
many families woke up today to the terrible sound of thunder and
witnessed the wonderful rain which followed, at nearly five in the
morning. I felt the spring breeze through the half open window and
almost tasted the lovely fresh air that welcomed itself into my
room. - 3/24/04
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Tehran's
Last Monday Of The Year, A Snowy One!
On Monday morning when people woke up in Tehran, most of them were
surprised to see snow outside! - 3/16/04
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A
beautiful day at Laleh park in Tehran
I took these lovely photos from different people in Laleh park on March
8, with their permission, as they were enjoying the wonderful late
afternoon sun in the park. It was such a wonderful thing to see these
people from all different backgrounds doing different things in their
own ways so calmly, peacefully and humanely. - 3/11/04
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8th March
Celebration Prevented In Tehran, Arrests Made
Today, 8th March was supposed to be a day of celebration for women by
women in Tehran�s Laleh park. We all thought it would be another
peaceful day for solidarity among women, this time about violence
against women. - 3/9/04
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Photos:
North Tehranis celebrate Ashoora
Here are some pictures which I took from north Tehran streets on
Ashoora. There were many queues in different parts of north Tehran
where people were waiting for Ashoora's traditional lunch. -
3/7/04
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A new
wonderful book called Bam
A new book called Bam was published in Iran last week. The book is the
work of Iran's very good and hard working photographer and
photojournalist Mr. Jasem Ghasbanpour. - 2/25/04
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My
Beautiful Tehran
I almost felt obliged to share these pictures of the hills and
mountains in the northwest of Tehran with you. - 2/24/04
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Iran�s
Election Fiasco
I have stopped people in the streets at random, colleagues, family and
taxi passengers and asked them if they will vote or not. Only one said
may be; the rest said No, and only two hesitated before they gave me
their no replies. I know my method was not scientific but overall it
seems that after a long time, majority of Iranians, at least urban
Iranians, are united in one thing which is boycotting the
election. - 2/19/04
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Report
from
Bam, Iran: Unkindness of God and lack of care and attention by his
sons
From the "seven gardens of sky� road we arrived in Bam. This was two
weeks ago, after nearly six weeks of that devastating quake that
shocked this city and left but a huge chunks of rubble all around in
every corner that one may turn. - 2/13/04 |
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Things
have changed in Iran
Last night we were in very heavy conversation regarding people�s
expectations and their right to such demands, the role of Mr. Khatami
in history, requirements for a Civil Society and so on. My current
local political affairs class was again very interesting and rewarding.
It truly makes me think about why, what and how and even when at
times. - 2/9/04
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Bam, Iran:
Children of a Lesser God
Everyone we saw, met or talked to in Bam had lost relatives and
friends, neighbors and loved ones. I asked many people how they could
manage to cope with all this? In reply they just turned and with sad
eyes mostly said, �It was God�s will� or something to that effect. It
was unbelievable and amazing how many times we heard the same
statements from everyone; old or young, man or woman, the reply was the
same. - 2/4/04
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Winter
Days in Tehran
There are days in Tehran, rare I must admit, that everything looks so
fine that one simply forgets and forgives all its many shortcomings.
Here i share with you such a beautiful day in tehran last week. -
1/19/04
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Interesting
events
in Tehran: Gangs of New York
You would not believe this! A couple of nights ago we decided to go to
cinema. The nearest theatre to us is Cinema Farhang; and they were
showing Gangs of New York! I had my camera with me, so I took a couple
of pictures that you can see here. - 1/16/04
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Iran:
Notes on Past and Present: Education and Religion
Many of those who are involved in education, trade, and in particular
industry, agree that one of the worst things since the 1979 revolution
in Iran is the fact that many of her educated elites, before and since,
have left the country. - 1/14/04
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My
"Current Local Politics" Class
Iran�s parliamentary election on 20 February has been the most talked
about issue in the past few months. Tragically only the Bam earthquake
overtook it. Now things are back to normal and everybody talks about it
again; - 1/13/04
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Iran: The
Significance of Shirin Ebadi�s Nobel Peace Prize
I believe that Ms Ebadi would not have won the prize if she were not a
woman or a Muslim. The fact that she is Iranian was not that
significant, in hindsight. Once the heat of the moment passed, I had
time to sit and think things over. The fact that she addresses herself
as a Muslim so often is because she is. - 12/17/03
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A note
from Tehran: Thank you all!
Dear Readers, It is more than a year since I first started to write for
Payvand. This was a real change for me as not long before that, I had
never been even tempted to put anything down on paper like this.
- 12/8/03
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Tehran's
Child beggars
We usually witness in Tehran�s streets, at the traffic lights, a
barrage of small children, teenagers, young and old men and even women
dressed often in rags and tatty clothes, selling or rather forcing
people to buy something from them; or even worse they just beg the
people, with a very sad and pleading voice, to give them something for
their dinner! - 12/1/03
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A
Friend's
Visit / Iran's Brain Drain Issue
He mentioned a joke that there is this planeload of Iranians and
Koreans arriving in the west. When it lands, the Koreans each go to
start some kind of business and are very successful; the Iranian do the
very same thing yet with a time delay. Since they first go and obtain a
degree, be it a bachelor, maters or even a PhD, and then go and do what
the Korean did some years earlier. - 11/24/03 |
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They do
not have to hang you to kill you (Roshanak Daryoush passes away)
Noushi took the black ribbon off the bouquet of white flowers that I
had brought. She said Roushanak is alive and lives in our hearts. She
was talking about her daughter, Roushanak Daryoush, the well-known
translator and member of Iran Pen who passed away last week in Munich,
Germany. - 11/10/03
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We need to
work together for our country Iran!
It may come as a shock to some of us that there are people who don�t
know who Shirin Ebadi is, and what Nobel Prize is, let alone what the
Peace award is. - 10/31/03
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A
get-together in Tehran to honor Shirin Ebadi, Iran's Nobel Peace Prize
winner
Markaz Farhangi Zanann (Women Cultural Centre) had organized an
informal get-together and invited representatives from women groups,
Iranian NGOs, those who are involved in child and women welfare,
environmentalist, prominent figures in art and media as well as known
and supportive individual women. My mum was my special guest that day,
as the gathering was happening in our house. - 10/27/03
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Shirin
White Roses: Shirin Ebadi is with us and she is one of us!
The beautiful creamy moon light brightened this city of ours tonight.
However, the light was coming from another direction, this one was
brighter, stronger and had tremendous energy. The core of Iranians'
much-extended middle class Tehranies were at the airport tonight.
Students, teachers, doctors, nurses, writers, journalists, artists,
engineers, taxi drivers, housewives, retired people, factory owners and
workers, managers, handicapped in chairs and even a couple of babies in
their prams were all there. - 10/15/03
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It feels
like spring here in Tehran
Tehran has been quietly buzzing since yesterday when the news arrived
of Ms Ebadi�s Nobel Prize. There is not a woman I know who could not be
happy about this event. -Syma Sayyah - 10/13/03
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Life in
Tehran
A few days ago, I was going down our Avenue, stuck in the traffic, and
there was a beautifully decorated Bride's Car with fantastic flowers in
white, pink and mauve. The car was black and these lovely flowers
really showed themselves. - 10/9/03
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On Edward
Said Loss
I cry not only because he was a most wonderful person who believed in
dialogue and true efforts in reaching lasting peace through
understanding, besides his scholarly work, but also because he was a
most gentle, kind man. - 9/30/03
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Two young
Iranian men going to high school soon
Parents everywhere are very much concerned about their children's
education. I know two very young men who will be going to high school
this academic year. They are both most adorable youngsters that one
could possibly come to know. - 9/23/03
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Tehran: Up
the mountains in Darakeh
Last Wednesday was a happy public holiday and since it was near school
opening, Mehr 1 ( September 23rd), most people had taken Thursday off
and gone mainly to Shomal to the Caspian. - 9/17/03
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Iran: Our
time will come, but we must be patient
At a meeting this week, I heard that at the First National Youth
Organizations Congress, which was attended by several important
dignitaries including the president, the participants managed to get
into fistfights and breaking of windows on the second day. -
9/12/03
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Let's
Remember Iran's Literary Treasures
Not many people know what Taher is or where it is and why it is so well
known in a certain circle. Taher is an Emamzadeh with a small but very
pleasant looking graveyard in North West of Tehran near Karaj. -
7/17/03
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Iran:
Tehran's "Weather" is getting hot
A kind reader reminded me that Iranians do not need to be preached from
outside. I agree with him 100 percent and more. We don't need to be
preached period. We have been preached too much and for too long. This
time, the people, the future, the youth, hopefully have realized that
it is up to them to make it happen. If they want change then they must
do something about it, take responsibility and be prepared to pay the
price. - 6/26/03
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Life in
Tehran: Catch the Metro Please!
The one way ticket has a fixed price for all destinations and costs 65
Rials or about 8 Cents. The stations are still clean, although I cannot
say the same for the stairs. But the best thing about it all was that
it was so cool there! I would even be happy to pay and go down to the
metro station just to skip the summer heat above, and come back up once
I have cooled off! - 6/18/03
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Technology
finds its way into Iran's Mosques!
Today I went to a "khatem" (a public memorial ceremony) which was held
in a mosque in central Tehran. This is a popular mosque with middle
class people of Tehran because it can accommodate large number of
people at both its ladies & gentlemen sections. - 6/12/03
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Paris
The most distinguishing aspect of my grandmother's house was her huge
Jasmine flower pots. In the evenings when we cleaned the yard and put
carpet on the large bench there to sit and enjoy the evening air and
have fresh fruit or tea, the smell of jasmine would take our breath
away. - 4/23/03
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Norouz
always makes me smile, ever since I was a child!
Norouz always makes me smile, ever since I was a child. In those days
we would be taken shopping for new clothes and new shoes. We would be
so excited for weeks or months before. At school, every day from the
middle of Bahman (early February), we would write on the blackboard how
many days were left to the New Year. - 3/18/03
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International
Women
Day in Tehran
International women's day celebration in Tehran was a little different
this year. This time it was a series of events, over a period of ten
days, by different women groups. - 3/10/03
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A
beautiful day in Tehran, topped with Parviz Tanavoli's exhibition at
Modern Art Museum (photos)
There are rare days that Tehran looks so lovely and beautiful that one
can forgive all its shortcomings in one go. Last Thursday was on those
days. The sky was truly blue and vividly bright all day. - 3/4/03
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Foreign
journalists miss the beat in Tehran!
Most foreign correspondents that come to Iran and stay awhile, have one
thing in common. They end up living in the North East side of Tehran in
Aaghdasih, Kameradienh, North Pasdaran, Niavaran and of course
Farmanieh. These are generally known as Shemiran. - 2/27/03
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Fridays
Are Art Days in Tehran
These days many art galleries have their openings on Friday afternoons,
and many art lovers and friends of artists go there with lovely flower
baskets to say hello, wish them luck and/or buy some of the art
works. - 1/9/03
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Customer
is First at Tehran International Airport!
At the airport I, and many others, were trying hard to hold back our
tears, while at the same time hoping to see our loved ones soon again,
here or there. In spite of our emotional state, waiting for my sister
to check so we could have tea at the airport caf�, I could observe a
few new things. - 1/3/03
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Life in
Tehran
Friday: It is getting really cold here, we had snow last Friday but
Tehran traffic is as hot as ever. Life has been quite hectic for me
these past few weeks. In the past three weeks or so, I have done the
followings: ... - 12/27/02
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Visitors
to Tehran
Being around at this time of the year, when many Iranians come back
home for a reunion with their loved ones, is one of most wonderful
things about living in Tehran. You get to see friends and relatives
truly from across the globe. It is enchanting as well as being
extremely enlightening. - 12/18/02
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Life is
Normal here
But I want to tell you about something totally different. I am sure
there are many people like me here in Tehran, or living abroad, who
have no idea what the hell is happening in this capital city of
ours. - 11/11/02
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All
that
jazz - a wedding in Lashkarak
It has taken me a few days to recover in order to find the strength to
write about the wedding of a close relative before Ramadan started.
Like all other weddings, there was so much talking and nagging about it
before and afterwards. Some thought it to be wonderful, others thought
it would be messy, out of character, a waste of money, disorganized,
great, uninteresting, a show off, and so on. Syma Sayyah, Tehran
- 12/13/02 (Iranian.com)
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