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Life in Tehran    

 




























 

 


 

Life in Tehran

These articles were originally published in payvand.com. If you have any updates or suggestions please contact Syma - syma@symasayyah.com





The End of 1388
As this Iranian year comes to an end I have been wondering about all that has happened and what we have been through.  For Iran in general and also for ourselves it was an event filled year, although not one we would wish to be repeated.  This year has been one of the driest that I remember, yet we managed not to have any water shortage; and I pray that next year will be the same. As it is part of life, some of it is good and some of it not so good.  As one always says "it is all about how you look at things and if you look there is always something good and positive about all that we experience even though we may fail to see it now." And I have tried with all my might to see the positive sides of all that I have experienced this year, even though at times it has not been easy. 

 

 

Charshanbeh Sorui Tradition Is Great Fun
In recent years we have missed the big Charshanbeh Sorui gatherings as we were mostly outside of Iran so we had to do with a small ceremony. Or if we were in Tehran, from fear of getting stuck in the traffic getting there and specially back home, we stayed at home and missed all the fun and joy of jumping over the fire and saying: "Your redness to me and my yellowness to you" (basically wishing for the glow and energy of the fire to come to the person who jumps over it and that for all the ills, badness and year long tiredness of the year to be taken from that person.  - 03/17/10

 

 

A Rich November in Tehran
The cold wind keeps coming and playing with the Tehran citizens; as soon as we turned all the heating on and put on our woollies, we have had an outburst of a wonderful Indian summer which was short-lived but much appreciated as the air is clean and sky is bright and life, despite the notorious Tehran traffic, becomes a little more bearable; and we can even get a glimpse of my beloved Mount Damavand!  - 12/6/09

 

 

Happy Children at Mexican Embassy in Tehran
Some months ago Cultural section of the Mexican Embassy in Tehran sent out an invitation to many of Tehran schools inviting their students to take part in 13th Children's drawing Contest" launched by the Ministry of Foreign Affairs of Mexico, primarily aimed at Mexicans children abroad, but also open to children around the world.  - 11/13/09

 

 

Dream the Impossible Dream
October has been a strange month like the rest of this year and we have been wondering, worrying about little big things or big little things and friends and the pain and worry that their loved ones endure and what kills me most is the fact that there is very little we can do, yet in my heart I am optimistic although I feel totally exhausted.  - 11/2/09

 

 

What a Difference A Day Makes!
What amazes me most these days is the speed of things. My mind can hardly catch up with one event before a new one unfolds and takes you into another world and at the same time there are a lot of physical things that we do, such as taking part in the peaceful and usually quiet marches around central Tehran. - Syma Sayyah - 6/21/09

 

Green Presence: Magical, Wonderful and truly extraordinary, yet it is real!
This week I have witnessed history in the making with my own eyes a few times. I have never felt more Iranian that I have done this week and I have not felt so close and united with my fellow citizens of this land of ours, and so proudly too. This is not a joke; we are not adventurers, we are normal citizens of this country exercising our rights and acting in silence our objections to the outcome of the recent election and calling for a new election.  - 6/19/09

 

Photos: June 18 Election Protests in Tehran: The Faces
Hundreds of thousands of people marched in the streets of Tehran again on Thursday June 18 to protest the outcome of the June 12 Iran's presidential election. Following photos show some of the faces of the people who took part in this march across the capital city.  - 6/19/09

 

 

Photos: June 18 Election Protests in Tehran: Signs and Slogans
Hundreds of thousands of people marched in the streets of Tehran again to protest the outcome of the June 12 Iran's presidential election. Following are some of the signs people were carrying.  - 6/19/09

 

 

 

Photos: June 18 Election Protests in Tehran: People in the streets
Hundreds of thousands of people marched in the streets of Tehran again on Thursday June 18 to protest the outcome of the June 12 Iran's presidential election. Following photos shows the people in some of the streets of the capital city including Ferdowsi, Enghelab and Valie Asr.  - 6/19/09

 

 

Catching up with myself
We arrived in Oxford just in time to celebrate Chaharshanbe-Suri in our very little garden with our neighbors, we sat outside even though the weather was a little cold and managed to have a barbeque, everybody seemed to enjoy it and some of them even joined us in jumping over the bonfire and reciting my yellowness to you, your redness to me  - 4/24/09

 

 

Tehran's Fruit Market
Recently, on my way out to visit a location south of Tehran with my colleague Mr Astani, we visited the new Tehran fruit market. Although it is primarily a wholesale market, the public can buy there. I had not been to the market since my childhood when I used to go with my grandmother for serious food shopping  - 4/29/09

 

   

Happy International Womens Day

Since I first thought like a woman many moons ago I have honored this day, which women have celebrated since 8th March 1909 in New York. The one thing I so deeply admired about them is the fact that they did not think of themselves as victims, despite all the odds, together they took some initiatives and took their lives in their own hands, and did they think themselves better than others. Here we also have to change men and women's attitudes and upbringing. 

 

My Granny's Aash-e Sholeh Qalamkar
Along with my sister Sohaila, I was brought up by my grandmother who was the head of her family, and in those days, once a year, the family would all come over to our house and stay over while we cooked aash-e sholeh qalamkar in a huge pot, which was large enough to comfortably hold a couple of the kids!  - 3/2/09

 

In the New Year Please Stop this Madness
We started the New Year not only with much needed rain which made the famous Tehran traffic jams even more unbearable but, as civilized citizens of the world, as those who believe that all God's children are born equal, shocked and mortified that the killing of ordinary citizens in Gaza by the bombs of the Israeli government is still going on.  - 1/1/09

 

 

Mothers for Peace Demonstrate in Tehran Against the War in Gaza
Mothers for Peace in Iran are a group of women who came together to share their solidarity and belief in peace and harmony in the world and dialogue and understanding rather than violence and war. Today, Sunday, they demonstrated in front of the Palestinian embassy in Tehran.  - 1/11/09

 

 

Tehran is much cooler
Tehran is really getting cooler and I am writing to you from my desk where the central heating unit is on and I have my warm tops on. I could not believe that just a couple of weeks ago, we were wondering if it was time to close up the coolers for this year or not, and the next week we turned the heaters on and now I have put on my woollies and thick socks with such a drastic change in the weather.  - 11/18/08

 

 

Wonderful Persian Termeh Shopping
Last week I went with my friend Mary for a special shopping trip to the Tehran main bazaar. She was looking for a special kind of Persian material called termeh to make into a coat for a special occasion. Termeh is a valuable and beautiful decorative cloth, finely woven and comes in many different, usually bright and cheerful colors and patterns.  - 10/30/08

 

Mom's Ush
It was just over three years ago that my mother left us and among many things, I miss the sound of her laughter more than anything else. Yes, three years since my mom passed away and because she was such a diverse and varied lady, I decided that every year we would try to remember her, her memory and her life in different ways. -Syma Sayyah - 9/25/08

 

Summer is coming to an end
For the past few days we have been feeling sudden outbursts of autumn wind which make life more bearable although Tehran is still too hot. Summer has been quite hellish and I am sure my bones will be much happier when we switch the water coolers off as the weather becomes cooler but I think that we still have a few more weeks to go.  - 9/16/08

 

Tehran is Hot
This wish goes for the recent package presented to Iran by the group of 5+1 brought over by a high delegation headed by Mr. Solana. Many hope that it will somehow and eventually be accepted by Iran, given that Iran right to sovereignty is accepted and silly threats and sanctions are lifted.  - 7/14/08

 

100 delicious Italian recipes with 100 Iranian artists drawings
Once in a while one comes across people who truly enjoy what they do and knowingly or unknowingly set high standards to be lessons to others. One such lady is Mrs Felicetta Ferraro who as the cultural attach� of the Italian embassy in Tehran has been doing this for the past 8 years.  - 5/28/08

 

Teymour and Yeganeh
Recently when I was going back to the office I had often noted a gentleman sitting on an old stool reading very loudly in pretty good English. Today I plucked up courage and went and spoke with him.  - 5/27/08

 

 

 

You never know what's going to happen next!
When I arrived, he said that he had pain in his chest and could not lie down. I called my doctor (and my guardian angel) Dr Shahnaz Atabak and explained the symptoms. Immediately she said that I must take him to an emergency unit, he most probably has had a heart attack.  - 5/8/08

 

A walk with Emma on the east side of Tehran
I love Tehran and as the weather has become more tolerable I have been able to take some walks around town. Last week I took my friend Emma on a walk through the central east side of Tehran. We met near the central bank and started our walk from Berlin Street - so-called because it is next to the German embassy - where they sell all sorts of fashion and clothing items.  - 4/10/08

 


End of the Year Thoughts
The year that is just coming to its close was a year when for the first time in my life people talked about the weather in Iran as much as they did in England. All this talk was because we had one of the worst winters ever. Cold and snow seemed not to want to leave...  - 3/21/08

  8th March belongs to all women everywhere: Happy International Women's Day
I come from a very mixed and rather unusual background. Women in our family have been even more different than those around them. I have seven sisters and six brothers from two fathers and five mothers.
My grandmother was married to Mr Ishmael Sayyah, the brother of Ms Fatemeh Sayyah the well known scholar, one of the first women in Iran ever to be educated and the first to teach at university.   - 3/07/08
 

Dr S.J. Shahidi's 40th at Dehkhoda in Tehran
I could hardly believe that it has already been 35 days since Dr Shahidi's passing when Shokoufeh Shahidi my friend called to invite me to his 40th ceremony at Dehkhoda, last Thursday from 3-5. Time has passed so quickly despite the cold.  - 2/27/08

 

Ahmadinejad: The Secret History of Iran's Radical Leader by Kasra Naji
Many of you may not know that a new book by Kasra Naji has been published. Kasra, an old friend of ours, has worked as a journalist for major news media such as The Guardian, LA Times, The Economist, BBC, The Financial Times, CNN, ABC and many others about the Middle East and Asia.  - 2/11/08

  Great Cold and Great Shame
But what has made me absolutely mad despite the roof and snow and traffic was the terrible news that Zanan (Women) Magazine has been closed down. I am not one of their regular readers but I know that it is one the best things in Iran, and as a citizen I am proud that we have such a good magazine.  - 2/1/08
 

Tehran covered in snow
We all have played with snow when we were kids and had a lot of fun. However as we grow up life takes away many of its simple pleasures and these days when it snows my immediate thoughts are - Will the pipes burst? Will the gas be cut off? Will we have a power cut or how long will it be before the side streets and alleys are so iced up that anyone walking on them has a more than average chance of breaking something?  - 1/28/08

 

Bayan Salis: An international bookshop in Tehran
Valiasr Avenue is the longest thoroughfare in Tehran and runs from Tajrish in the North to the main railway station in the south. In this most amazing and diverse avenue, once in a while you come across a small place that is a sparkling gem that can brighten your life and bring joy to your heart and a smile to your lips.  - 12/21/07

 

A walk in downtown Tehran
From there we started to walk up Valiasr Avenue to where it crossed Enghelab Avenue, where I wanted to show my friend the City Theater building (taatre-shahr). The fact that it was the middle of Ramadan did not affect us in the least. - Syma Sayyah - 9/29/07

 

An Interesting hour in Qazvin
Qazvin, which is about 90km to the west of Tehran has been quite famous in the past. It was chosen as the capital during the Safavid era and it was also an important and significant city during the time of the Ghajars. Qazvin is a city of about a million inhabitants and it seemed that everyone was out when we were driving around  - 9/13/07

 

An Exquisite Day in Shemshak
We were served a most delicious lunch, all great wonders of Shomal where Ms Lashai originally is from and is very proud of. - Syma Sayyah, - 9/9/07

 

A Tehran Summer
Many of you may have noticed that I have been rather quiet and have not been writing much for a couple of months. I went back to work last February and since then I have been devastatingly busy with different projects especially these past few months. The most unusual weather this summer has been more than a surprise.  - 9/7/07

 

The Osnabrueck Symphony Orchestra in Tehran
For the first time in years a foreign orchestra played in Tehran this week and they received a rapturous welcome. After a visit to Germany last year by the Tehran Symphony Orchestra, the Osnabrueck Symphony Orchestra played a concert in the Vahdat hall. Although it was not well publicized, we were lucky to get some good seats. -Syma Sayyah and Paul Sanford, Tehran - 8/31/07

 

PRESS TV launched in Tehran
Recently I was invited to attend the launch of PRESS-TV, the new English language TV channel in at the NIRT main ceremony hall in Tehran. PRESS TV is a TV channel that reaches its targeted audience inside and outside Iran through satellite. I learned that it is now accessible through all the main satellite channels.  - 7/19/07

 

Tehran's Famous Flower Market
One of my all time favorite films is My Fair Lady and my favorite scene is the flower market in the early morning hours. So a few days ago we booked a taxi for about 5 a.m. I had decided to make my long term wish come true and go to see one the two famous Tehran flower markets.  - 6/18/07

 

Tehran Diplomatic Ladies Bazaar
Last month on a very hot Friday morning, we went to the annual bazaar in Tehran organized by the Diplomatic Ladies Group in the massive garden of the Turkish ambassador's lovely residence on the north east corner of Elayieh near Pul-e Roumie. They had sold nearly 3000 tickets, the proceeds of which went to charities and good causes in Iran.  - 6/5/07

 

Happy Birthday Alan Johnston
Today is Alan Johnstons' birthday. He is the BBC correspondent in Gaza which was abducted 66 days ago by an unknown group. Today at the UN office in Tehran there was a ceremony on the occasion of his 45th birthday organized by the BBC and UN offices in Tehran. The Tehran national and international press corps was present to wish their colleague a happy birthday and also to demand his immediate release.  - 5/17/07

 

Visiting old friends at Imamzadeh Taher
A few days ago I had a meeting outside Karaj in the west of Tehran, and on my way back I felt like going to say hello to many old friends and national heroes whose final resting place is in Imamzadeh Taher just outside Karaj.  - 4/13/07

 

A Walk in Darakeh
Throughout the Norouz holidays we hoped for fine weather in vain. The sun hardly ever came out and when it did on rare occasions it was for a very short time. For two whole days it poured and we were sitting close to the radiators and wondering what had happened to Spring.  - 4/5/07

 

Kaveh Golestan - Four years have gone by
On 2nd April 2003 we lost a distinguished and a highly accomplished Iranian photojournalist, Kaveh Golestan, at Kifri in Iraq. He was a freelance journalist who at the time of his death was working as a cameraman for the BBC when he stepped on a landmine as he was getting out of the BBC jeep.  - 3/30/07

 

A Norouz Card with a Difference: A New Seven for our Times
I have received many cards recently from all over the world with Norouz greetings but there is one that stands out without a doubt and will stay in one's mind long after the Norouz celebrations have passed. I wanted to share this card with you which I received from the Zanestan website  - 3/27/07

 

Dehkhoda Institute: A Hidden National Treasure
Ali Akbar Dehkhoda is well known to all Persian scholars across the world. He was born in Tehran in 1879 and was an accomplished writer and poet. A well known work of his is the 4 volume Amsal va Hekam which includes Persian proverbs. Some of his poems were versed mostly and at times only with pure Persian words.  - 3/19/07

 

How Can Two Ladies be a Threat to National Security?
I was on my way to a meeting in center of Tehran today when I passed the office that Mahboubeh Abbasgholizadeh and Shadi Sadr used to work in a couple of years ago. I had met them there several times with other female friends to chat and discuss things.  - 3/13/07

 

Nazri Cooking: How religion and tradition interact
Today is Arbaeen, the 40th day after the death of Imam Hossein, the 3rd Imam in Shia Islam who was martyred in Kabala. This Imam is highly regarded in Iran and many people cook food in his memory (Nazri) and give it to the poor, friends and family.  - 3/10/07

 

HAPPY INTERNATIONAL WOMEN'S DAY
Yesterday it was raining on and off all the time, but today the sun was bright and the weather was pleasant but the best news of all was that almost all of our friends were released very early this morning at about 2 AM.  - 3/8/07

 

Arrested Iranian women were only exercising their constitutional rights
Many of you have seen the news about the arrest of over 30 women activists in Tehran on Sunday.These ladies should not have been arrested at all. Whether we agree with their strategy, whether they are close personal friends, whether they were wise, whether they have children, whether they have been to court before. The fact remains that they were arrested and have been put in prison for no reason apart from exercising their constitutional rights for peaceful gatherings (Section 27).  - 3/6/07

 

A week of domestic disaster in Tehran
When we read the international news all that we read about Iran seems to be about one thing. Yet, in Tehran, where we live, life goes on normally and often quite ordinarily. We'd like to share with you a crazy week of our life in Tehran that for many of you will bring back past memories!  - 2/16/07

 

A Success story from Tehran Sharif University
The accomplishments of Sharif University students are well known not only in Iran but also throughout North America, Europe and other parts of the world. Recently through my work with PKCF, I found a new success story of former Sharif University students. They have won many awards since their formation about 15 years ago.  - 1/9/07

 

We didn't make it this time but...
We sure made a difference for the next election and others that follow. I am writing this without knowing the final outcome of last Friday's election for Tehran city council in which I ran as an independent westernized educated candidate.  - 12/19/06

 

A day in Darband
Autumn arrived abruptly in Tehran a few weeks ago. First we had a good deal of rain and thunderstorms, but mostly we get a wind, sometimes cold and rough but generally pleasant. The best thing about it either way is that the wind blows away the smog covering Tehran and we get a clear blue sky which means that we can clearly see the mountains surrounding this crazy and dear city of ours.  - 11/27/06

 

A day in a family garden
It is not very often that we have been able to head out of Tehran and breathe a little fresh air and enjoy the country. On one such rare occasion last weekend we were invited by our friends Jassem and Vida to their bagh (garden) near Mohammad-Shahr in the Karaj area, about 60 kilometers from Tehran.  - 11/6/06

 

Sofreh Nazr - An Iranian Shia Tradition
Sofreh is a Persian word which technically means spread but when used in conversation it means a cloth, simple or grand, usually spread on the floor on top of the carpet, on which food is served, and nazr means a wish or a vow which one makes with God.  - 10/27/06

 

A lovely Friday in Tajrish
Those who live in Tehran know well what and where Tajrish is. It used to be, and still is, a center to all destinations in the north of Tehran, places like Farmanieh, Azjodanieh, Darband, Niavaran, Chizdar and so on.  - 10/20/06

 

The Right to Pass Nationality to the Children of Iranian Mothers
Recently, I accepted an invitation to be on a committee of volunteers and activists who want to try to change the particular law which specifies that Iranian nationality can only be passed to a child through his or her father.  - 10/6/06

 

A Night in Darakeh
Darakeh is a village on the slopes of the mountains to the north of Tehran and is one of the many spots that people can go for a soft or hard hike depending on how far they wish to walk.  - 9/22/06

 

Tehran's ordinary flower shops
I want to share one of Tehran's simple pleasures. I love flowers and I try never to go anywhere empty handed and I think most Tehran flower shops do a great job of wrapping and decorating the flowers you choose.  - 9/19/06

 

Tehran again
I have been back in Tehran for a few weeks, after a few months trying to live in Oxford. We came back for my mom�s saal (the anniversary of her passing). The first two weeks went by so fast, as I was arranging the ceremony at our house that lots of family and friends attended.  - 9/18/06

 

Park Mellat's New Face
I have never been a morning person so it was a surprise to me that recently, one early Friday morning I woke up and was fresh and full of energy. Since we live near Park Mellat in Tehran, we decided to go there and have a walk around.  - 6/29/06

 

Strange things in Tehran
Recently I had noticed some most strange grey metal fixtures being installed in the streets near our house. Two days ago I realized what they were to be used for.  - 5/31/06

 

Happy Norouz, there is always hope!
We are coming to the end of the Iranian year 1384, and at such times, one takes a look back and wonders what the year was like. For many if not most of us, it has been hard one, yet as life plays on there are always a few sparkles of good and positive events to help us carry on. This becomes more important as we get older and life becomes harder and more serious. -Syma Sayyah - 3/20/06

 

End of the year thoughts
At this time of the year, many people take the time to reflect on the events that have taken place during the past twelve months. I too have been wondering about all the many ups and downs of life that I have been through.  - 12/29/05

 

The Wonderful Tehran Friday Market
Tehran may be quiet on Fridays for many, but there is so much that people can enjoy and find interesting despite it all! One such feature is the Tehran Friday Market which is held on three floors of a multi-storey car park in center of Tehran, what was used to be called 'Charaheh Estamboul' as it is near the Turkish embassy, on the east side of Joumbouri Avenue.  - 11/15/05

 

The Irresistible Shirin Patisserie in Tehran
Shirin in Persian means sweet and the Shirin patisserie in the north part of Tehran - Freshteh Street, No. 56 Agha-Bozourgie Street- is without doubt my favorite patisserie in Tehran.  - 9/14/05

 

Home Decorating Ideas from Tehran
Like so many others, I have now managed to recover from the utter surprise of the recent Iranian election results. Whatever the first round of the election might have been, the second round was as fair and square as you could get anywhere.  - 7/19/05

 

Payback Time
Many Payvand readers write to me for many diverse and different reasons. One of them was a youngish reader who asked me if I could help him find an NGO that he could work for during his forthcoming visit to Tehran. I introduced him to one such NGO which asked him to get in touch with them to arrange things.  - 6/23/05

 

Tehran's Andisheh Park: What is important to Iranian men and women
Last week a young friend of my brother�s arranged that I go and talk to his mates at the park near my mum�s house. Park Andisheh is located in the middle of Old Shemiran road (called Shariatie these days).  - 6/20/05

 

Iran�s Next President And What Awaits Him
Suddenly in Iran there is election fever and posters are everywhere. After all the fuss, the Iranian presidential election will take place in a few days and one of the eight approved candidates will become Iran�s next president.  - 6/14/05

 

Iranian women hold protest gathering in Tehran
On Sunday June 12, a coalition of Iranian groups and individuals held a gathering in Tehran to protest the violation of women rights as guaranteed by the constitution. The gathering was held in the capital city in front of Tehran University.  - 6/13/05

 

Our pigeons and "a bird that wants to fly high" story
But I want to share with you another story, the story of a bright 17 year old girl, who comes from Kerman and who wants to work for NASA. Last month she won a silver medal in Switzerland at the 33rd International Invention Competition held in Geneva.  - 5/16/05

 

People in Tehran�s Laleh Park
Last week, with a few minutes between appointments, I and a researcher went to Laleh Park, which is in the center of Tehran, to take a look around. There, in the middle of the very tall trees, one can find refuge and cool off a little from the afternoon heat. Many young people had the same idea and had found their way there too.  - 5/6/05

 

Positively cynical and not that serious either
Last month on an early part of the week, my friend, a European freelance reporter who speaks good Farsi, and I drove to Karaj which is on west side of and not far from Tehran. We were going there to interview these women fire fighters.  - 4/18/05

  Photos: Snow in Tehran
Last week we had a couple of lovely warm days, which made me think the spring is just across the corner. But i was wrong, and we have been having snow on and off since end of last week!  - 2/8/05
 

The Smiling Ayatollah Kariminia
We got to Qom just before 10am, the time we had arranged for the interview. We called to say that we may be a little late as we did not know our way around Qom. After a while, we parked the car in front of a narrow alley and walked to the address where we met the kind Ayatollah, at the head of another alley, waiting to lead us to his home.  - 2/7/05

 

My visit to Brugge, Belgium
I was in Brugge because in the last week of November I was one of a number of women delegates who went to Brussels as part of a female initiative program which aims to build bridges of understanding, cooperation and friendship between our two nations (Iran and Belgium).  - 1/4/05

 

The Artist�s Forum Garden in Tehran
Every time I go to Tehran Artists' Forum place I see that they are working on fixing the forum's garden. The other day I was early for a meeting so I took the time and walked through the garden. I liked it so much that later that afternoon I went back with my new digital camera and took a few pictures which I share with you.  - 12/23/04

 

I Am Back!
Many of you may have wondered what has happened to me. Although I had a few pieces published that I wrote before I left Tehran in July, to be quite honest I have not been able to write anything for nearly three months.  - 9/29/04

 

My Favorite Diplomatic Couple In Tehran
I take this opportunity and nominate Mr. and Mrs. Toscano from Italy as my favorite Diplomatic Couple in Tehran.  - 7/21/04

 

Iran: A visit to Firouzkouh Industrial Complex
Many people might know of or have heard abut the Ghazvin Industrial complex on the west side of Tehran between Karaj and Ghazvin. However, I doubt that many have heard of Firouzkouh Industrial Complex, which is on the east side of Tehran, as you turn off Damavand Road and drive towards Firouzkouh which takes you to Amoul.  - 7/16/04

 

Iran: Women�s Horse Racing Competition
My friend Jasem Ghazbanpour who is a well known photographer told me about a race which took place last month in East of Azerbaijan, in the valley of Ghreghiyeh near city of Kelidar, where you can find many historical sites, including Babak Khorramdin's Fort  - 7/12/04

 

Little Parks in Tehran
These days my work takes me to the city center whether I go to work or walk or ride in special Tehran's taxis called mostaghim (straight)- to get to meetings. This gives me a good chance to see and be ever so impressed with the state of Tehran's Little Parks which are scattered all around the city.  - 6/20/04

 

My trip to Iran's quake stricken Bam in May
There was still a haze in the air everywhere we went, like a touch of dust, blocking the view. Generally speaking small scale works have been done or are under way, but nowhere big enough or fast enough. There were big queues in front of government offices during the working days.  - 5/28/04

 

Photos: Workers Repairing Arg Citadel in Bam
The following photos show the workers repairing the surrounding areas of Arg�s historical citadel in Bam. I took them during my recent visit to Bam.  - 5/24/04

 

Girls School in Bam, Iran
Here are some pictures I took from a girls school (Addab) during my recent trip to Iran�s quake stricken city of Bam. There were some classes inside the trailers and some in the open space.  - 5/19/04

 

Sanitary Facilities in Iran�s quake-stricken Bam
One of the biggest problems that people have in Bam, in the city and especially in the camps, is sanitation; clean public toilets, a place where people can have a good and real shower, and a place to wash their clothes.  - 5/21/04

 

Bam, Iran: The Little Gardens of Sorrow
I felt almost an urge to go Bam's cemetery during my recent visit to this town which was devastated by a deadly quake in December 2003.  - 5/17/04

 

Iran: Women at work in Tehran
I was walking in the streets of Tehran yesterday when I saw these young university students doing some field work in the streets. I was so impressed that I could not resist taking some pictures from them.  - 4/29/04

 

Haft Seen at British Museum in London
You must all wonder what had happened to me, since I have been pretty silent for the past few weeks, except for two short art pieces that were written before I left Iran for a few weeks to carry on my busy life in some corners of Europe as well as visiting my loved ones.  - 4/26/04

 

End of the Year Thoughts
We have had the first rains of the spring here in Tehran. I am sure many families woke up today to the terrible sound of thunder and witnessed the wonderful rain which followed, at nearly five in the morning. I felt the spring breeze through the half open window and almost tasted the lovely fresh air that welcomed itself into my room.  - 3/24/04

 

Tehran's Last Monday Of The Year, A Snowy One!
On Monday morning when people woke up in Tehran, most of them were surprised to see snow outside!  - 3/16/04

 

A beautiful day at Laleh park in Tehran
I took these lovely photos from different people in Laleh park on March 8, with their permission, as they were enjoying the wonderful late afternoon sun in the park. It was such a wonderful thing to see these people from all different backgrounds doing different things in their own ways so calmly, peacefully and humanely.  - 3/11/04

 

8th March Celebration Prevented In Tehran, Arrests Made
Today, 8th March was supposed to be a day of celebration for women by women in Tehran�s Laleh park. We all thought it would be another peaceful day for solidarity among women, this time about violence against women.  - 3/9/04

 

Photos: North Tehranis celebrate Ashoora
Here are some pictures which I took from north Tehran streets on Ashoora. There were many queues in different parts of north Tehran where people were waiting for Ashoora's traditional lunch.  - 3/7/04

 

A new wonderful book called Bam
A new book called Bam was published in Iran last week. The book is the work of Iran's very good and hard working photographer and photojournalist Mr. Jasem Ghasbanpour.  - 2/25/04

 

My Beautiful Tehran
I almost felt obliged to share these pictures of the hills and mountains in the northwest of Tehran with you.  - 2/24/04

   

Iran�s Election Fiasco
I have stopped people in the streets at random, colleagues, family and taxi passengers and asked them if they will vote or not. Only one said may be; the rest said No, and only two hesitated before they gave me their no replies. I know my method was not scientific but overall it seems that after a long time, majority of Iranians, at least urban Iranians, are united in one thing which is boycotting the election.  - 2/19/04

    Report from Bam, Iran: Unkindness of God and lack of care and attention by his sons
From the "seven gardens of sky� road we arrived in Bam. This was two weeks ago, after nearly six weeks of that devastating quake that shocked this city and left but a huge chunks of rubble all around in every corner that one may turn.  - 2/13/04
   

Things have changed in Iran
Last night we were in very heavy conversation regarding people�s expectations and their right to such demands, the role of Mr. Khatami in history, requirements for a Civil Society and so on. My current local political affairs class was again very interesting and rewarding. It truly makes me think about why, what and how and even when at times.  - 2/9/04

 

Bam, Iran: Children of a Lesser God
Everyone we saw, met or talked to in Bam had lost relatives and friends, neighbors and loved ones. I asked many people how they could manage to cope with all this? In reply they just turned and with sad eyes mostly said, �It was God�s will� or something to that effect. It was unbelievable and amazing how many times we heard the same statements from everyone; old or young, man or woman, the reply was the same.  - 2/4/04

   

Winter Days in Tehran
There are days in Tehran, rare I must admit, that everything looks so fine that one simply forgets and forgives all its many shortcomings. Here i share with you such a beautiful day in tehran last week.  - 1/19/04

   

Interesting events in Tehran: Gangs of New York
You would not believe this! A couple of nights ago we decided to go to cinema. The nearest theatre to us is Cinema Farhang; and they were showing Gangs of New York! I had my camera with me, so I took a couple of pictures that you can see here.  - 1/16/04

   

Iran: Notes on Past and Present: Education and Religion
Many of those who are involved in education, trade, and in particular industry, agree that one of the worst things since the 1979 revolution in Iran is the fact that many of her educated elites, before and since, have left the country.  - 1/14/04

   

My "Current Local Politics" Class
Iran�s parliamentary election on 20 February has been the most talked about issue in the past few months. Tragically only the Bam earthquake overtook it. Now things are back to normal and everybody talks about it again;  - 1/13/04

 

Iran: The Significance of Shirin Ebadi�s Nobel Peace Prize
I believe that Ms Ebadi would not have won the prize if she were not a woman or a Muslim. The fact that she is Iranian was not that significant, in hindsight. Once the heat of the moment passed, I had time to sit and think things over. The fact that she addresses herself as a Muslim so often is because she is.  - 12/17/03

   

A note from Tehran: Thank you all!
Dear Readers, It is more than a year since I first started to write for Payvand. This was a real change for me as not long before that, I had never been even tempted to put anything down on paper like this.  - 12/8/03

 

Tehran's Child beggars
We usually witness in Tehran�s streets, at the traffic lights, a barrage of small children, teenagers, young and old men and even women dressed often in rags and tatty clothes, selling or rather forcing people to buy something from them; or even worse they just beg the people, with a very sad and pleading voice, to give them something for their dinner!  - 12/1/03

    A Friend's Visit / Iran's Brain Drain Issue
He mentioned a joke that there is this planeload of Iranians and Koreans arriving in the west. When it lands, the Koreans each go to start some kind of business and are very successful; the Iranian do the very same thing yet with a time delay. Since they first go and obtain a degree, be it a bachelor, maters or even a PhD, and then go and do what the Korean did some years earlier.  - 11/24/03
 

They do not have to hang you to kill you (Roshanak Daryoush passes away)
Noushi took the black ribbon off the bouquet of white flowers that I had brought. She said Roushanak is alive and lives in our hearts. She was talking about her daughter, Roushanak Daryoush, the well-known translator and member of Iran Pen who passed away last week in Munich, Germany.  - 11/10/03

   

We need to work together for our country Iran!
It may come as a shock to some of us that there are people who don�t know who Shirin Ebadi is, and what Nobel Prize is, let alone what the Peace award is.  - 10/31/03

 

A get-together in Tehran to honor Shirin Ebadi, Iran's Nobel Peace Prize winner
Markaz Farhangi Zanann (Women Cultural Centre) had organized an informal get-together and invited representatives from women groups, Iranian NGOs, those who are involved in child and women welfare, environmentalist, prominent figures in art and media as well as known and supportive individual women. My mum was my special guest that day, as the gathering was happening in our house.  - 10/27/03

 

Shirin White Roses: Shirin Ebadi is with us and she is one of us!
The beautiful creamy moon light brightened this city of ours tonight. However, the light was coming from another direction, this one was brighter, stronger and had tremendous energy. The core of Iranians' much-extended middle class Tehranies were at the airport tonight. Students, teachers, doctors, nurses, writers, journalists, artists, engineers, taxi drivers, housewives, retired people, factory owners and workers, managers, handicapped in chairs and even a couple of babies in their prams were all there.  - 10/15/03

   

It feels like spring here in Tehran
Tehran has been quietly buzzing since yesterday when the news arrived of Ms Ebadi�s Nobel Prize. There is not a woman I know who could not be happy about this event. -Syma Sayyah - 10/13/03

   

Life in Tehran
A few days ago, I was going down our Avenue, stuck in the traffic, and there was a beautifully decorated Bride's Car with fantastic flowers in white, pink and mauve. The car was black and these lovely flowers really showed themselves.  - 10/9/03

 

On Edward Said Loss
I cry not only because he was a most wonderful person who believed in dialogue and true efforts in reaching lasting peace through understanding, besides his scholarly work, but also because he was a most gentle, kind man.  - 9/30/03

   

Two young Iranian men going to high school soon
Parents everywhere are very much concerned about their children's education. I know two very young men who will be going to high school this academic year. They are both most adorable youngsters that one could possibly come to know.  - 9/23/03

   

Tehran: Up the mountains in Darakeh
Last Wednesday was a happy public holiday and since it was near school opening, Mehr 1 ( September 23rd), most people had taken Thursday off and gone mainly to Shomal to the Caspian.  - 9/17/03

 

Iran: Our time will come, but we must be patient
At a meeting this week, I heard that at the First National Youth Organizations Congress, which was attended by several important dignitaries including the president, the participants managed to get into fistfights and breaking of windows on the second day.  - 9/12/03

 

Let's Remember Iran's Literary Treasures
Not many people know what Taher is or where it is and why it is so well known in a certain circle. Taher is an Emamzadeh with a small but very pleasant looking graveyard in North West of Tehran near Karaj.  - 7/17/03

 

Iran: Tehran's "Weather" is getting hot
A kind reader reminded me that Iranians do not need to be preached from outside. I agree with him 100 percent and more. We don't need to be preached period. We have been preached too much and for too long. This time, the people, the future, the youth, hopefully have realized that it is up to them to make it happen. If they want change then they must do something about it, take responsibility and be prepared to pay the price.  - 6/26/03

 

Life in Tehran: Catch the Metro Please!
The one way ticket has a fixed price for all destinations and costs 65 Rials or about 8 Cents. The stations are still clean, although I cannot say the same for the stairs. But the best thing about it all was that it was so cool there! I would even be happy to pay and go down to the metro station just to skip the summer heat above, and come back up once I have cooled off!  - 6/18/03

 

Technology finds its way into Iran's Mosques!
Today I went to a "khatem" (a public memorial ceremony) which was held in a mosque in central Tehran. This is a popular mosque with middle class people of Tehran because it can accommodate large number of people at both its ladies & gentlemen sections.  - 6/12/03

   

Paris
The most distinguishing aspect of my grandmother's house was her huge Jasmine flower pots. In the evenings when we cleaned the yard and put carpet on the large bench there to sit and enjoy the evening air and have fresh fruit or tea, the smell of jasmine would take our breath away.  - 4/23/03

 

Norouz always makes me smile, ever since I was a child!
Norouz always makes me smile, ever since I was a child. In those days we would be taken shopping for new clothes and new shoes. We would be so excited for weeks or months before. At school, every day from the middle of Bahman (early February), we would write on the blackboard how many days were left to the New Year.  - 3/18/03

 

International Women Day in Tehran
International women's day celebration in Tehran was a little different this year. This time it was a series of events, over a period of ten days, by different women groups.  - 3/10/03

 

A beautiful day in Tehran, topped with Parviz Tanavoli's exhibition at Modern Art Museum (photos)
There are rare days that Tehran looks so lovely and beautiful that one can forgive all its shortcomings in one go. Last Thursday was on those days. The sky was truly blue and vividly bright all day.  - 3/4/03

 

Foreign journalists miss the beat in Tehran!
Most foreign correspondents that come to Iran and stay awhile, have one thing in common. They end up living in the North East side of Tehran in Aaghdasih, Kameradienh, North Pasdaran, Niavaran and of course Farmanieh. These are generally known as Shemiran.  - 2/27/03

   

Fridays Are Art Days in Tehran
These days many art galleries have their openings on Friday afternoons, and many art lovers and friends of artists go there with lovely flower baskets to say hello, wish them luck and/or buy some of the art works.  - 1/9/03

   

Customer is First at Tehran International Airport!
At the airport I, and many others, were trying hard to hold back our tears, while at the same time hoping to see our loved ones soon again, here or there. In spite of our emotional state, waiting for my sister to check so we could have tea at the airport caf�, I could observe a few new things.  - 1/3/03

   

Life in Tehran
Friday: It is getting really cold here, we had snow last Friday but Tehran traffic is as hot as ever. Life has been quite hectic for me these past few weeks. In the past three weeks or so, I have done the followings: ...  - 12/27/02

   

Visitors to Tehran
Being around at this time of the year, when many Iranians come back home for a reunion with their loved ones, is one of most wonderful things about living in Tehran. You get to see friends and relatives truly from across the globe. It is enchanting as well as being extremely enlightening.  - 12/18/02

   

Life is Normal here
But I want to tell you about something totally different. I am sure there are many people like me here in Tehran, or living abroad, who have no idea what the hell is happening in this capital city of ours.  - 11/11/02

   

All that jazz - a wedding in Lashkarak
It has taken me a few days to recover in order to find the strength to write about the wedding of a close relative before Ramadan started. Like all other weddings, there was so much talking and nagging about it before and afterwards. Some thought it to be wonderful, others thought it would be messy, out of character, a waste of money, disorganized, great, uninteresting, a show off, and so on.  Syma Sayyah, Tehran - 12/13/02 (Iranian.com)

 

 


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