Our friend
Mehrdad - also known as the Desert Fox - was full of
enthusiasm and excitement when he came to tell us about his recent
trip. He and a few others had done what nobody else had done
before. He told us how, after 6 expeditions he had at last achieved his
dream, which he had started some 12 years ago.

In a few lines I will
try to explain what he and
his friends had done. The Lut Desert is a huge dry salt lake in the
south east of Iran which is about 480x320 kilometers in area. In
the south it is close to Bam, to the east is Kerman and to the west is
Zahedan. The desert consists of three major parts, a western part
which is mostly sand mountains, a central part which is mostly flat and
is covered by small sand dunes but there is quicksand and mud around so
it is not all a smooth ride and then there is the eastern part, with
ridges of massive sand dunes running east-west. Nobody had ever
been inside this area - many had tried but failed.

Here they have the
highest sand dunes in Iran and
probably in the world but that is to be verified. They are more
than 700 meters high. Most people who go into the desert arrive
from the north and leave from the south of the central area. Our
Desert Fox told us that nobody, apart maybe from a few drug traffickers
on the run had ever been to these very high western dunes by car, camel
or by walking although some had tried unsuccessfully. Some had
flown over it and no one has ever claimed to have crossed these
massively high mega dunes to get to the west side. Mehrdad,
Babak, Hassan, Mehdi, Annette and Daniel with their kids were the first
to have done it. Mehrdad praised his brother Babak, whom we had the
pleasure to travel on short trips twice the year before, for his good
comradeship and team work, a calm and cool yet very able technician.

A day before the
Iranian New Year they started off
early in the morning in four cars for a journey of a lifetime which
lasted ten days. They were fully equipped and had 140 spare liters of
gas for each of the cars after they filled up at the last gas station
on the way, a large amount of water and food, GPS and satellite
telephone, plus good team players and great enthusiasm for adventure
including the kids. They visited Khosf, Mehbadan and Dehsau
before entering the desert.

Mehrdad told us that
there are two major
misconceptions about the Lut. One is that it is the hottest place
on earth, and the other that no life, even bacteria can exist there.
The temperature often rises above 50 degrees but in his opinion
it is nothing like as high as the figure of 70.7 degrees sometimes
claimed. Life does exist in the desert and he had film and
photographs to show it. They had seen lizards, a unique rat
called dumb-e mesvaki (toothbrush-Tail) they saw sand cats, migrating
birds flying, falcons, foxes and others. They had also seen very
large green vegetation.

They drove many
kilometers from the north of the
desert until they got to the central edge of the eastern part where set
up their base camp. This part is not very friendly and has high rocks
which reminded you of the rock surface of the moon - they were all
excited planning and trying to work out how to get through the eastern
part. During one of the explorations to find out how to approach
getting across, Mehrdad and Babak felt the sand avalanche, he told me
that as they were walking back to check which direction to take he felt
something quite weird and sensed that the sand moving with him and
realized they were going deeper and deeper into the sand. Suddenly the
moving stopped but they were up to their waists in the sand.

They were very
patient and somehow found the
strength to do a lot of trial and error explorations up and down the
ridges but usually only with two cars to keep the camp going and to
save on petrol. Everywhere there were huge mega dunes surrounding them.
Mehrdad walked up one dune which took him over two hours and from
the top he saw a passage, showing the direction that they must take to
get through the ridges and back to the camp. It was then that he saw
two birds migrating to a new home which was most bizarre in the middle
of the desert. They set off in two cars, on each side there were sand
dunes 700 meters high, they did a lot of turns to get through the
passage that got them through and enjoyed a fantastic sensations and
views. As they drove slowly further and further they entered a
different world. Towards the end of the crossing they found a unique
piece of dark grey rock, about 12 kilos in weight, which they thought
must be a meteorite, and samples have been sent to a laboratory to
confirm this. They also found some large green bushes, some still green
and they used the dead ones for their camp fire on their way back.
They all felt great for having done something that no one had
done before, crossing the eastern side of the Lut desert in a car and
returning.

The next day they
started back and came to Kishit
village where they had to go through the river bed which was the road
with its much welcome water (complete with ducks) even if it was very
salty. Then they made their way back on the main road towards
Tehran. We have seen this adventure on video and we hope to be
able to help him make it into a documentary - it is quite sensational.
The photos do not justify the great sense of vastness that one feels,
when nobody had ever been there. What a great feeling it must have
been!!
We missed you (jaye hameh maa khali)!